One bagel, three trays of toppings, and a thirty-second judgement call on which one you fancy. This is how we eat smoked salmon at home on a Saturday: not one fancy bagel, three slightly different ones. The classic with cream cheese and dill is the default. The green version with avocado and capers is the lighter one. The sharp version with pickled red onion and horseradish is the one for grown-ups. Lay everything out, let people build their own, accept that you will eat at least two.
