A barbecue is the easiest place to introduce smoked salmon. The grill itself can do the smoking: a side of fresh salmon, indirect heat, wood chips on one side of the coals, twenty-five minutes. You get warm, flaky, smoky fish that holds together for slicing. Alongside it: a grazing board of our cold oak-smoked salmon with cheese, soda bread, salted butter and pickles. Cold plates and hot fish on the same table. The two together is what people remember about your barbecue.
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