A loose take on a niçoise, with smoked salmon instead of tuna and avocado for richness. The smoke does for the salad what good cured tuna usually does: it makes everything else taste sharper by contrast. Build it on a platter at the table and let people help themselves. It’s a lunch you can eat off your knees in the garden, or plate up properly with a glass of cold rosé and pretend you’re in Provence.
