One-pan cooking is the answer to a Wednesday night when nobody wants to do the washing up afterwards. The gnocchi goes in a pan with the sauce ingredients, into the oven, out twenty-five minutes later. The tagliatelle and asparagus cook together with the salmon folded in at the end, off the heat. One pan to wash, fifteen to twenty-five minutes start to finish, a proper dinner. Smoked salmon trimmings make this even more economical: a tenner of fish buys enough for four big plates.
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