A chowder is the Irish lunch on a cold afternoon. This version uses smoked salmon trimmings instead of fresh fish: less expensive, no fishmonger trip, and the smoke gives it a depth that fresh salmon alone doesn’t. The trick is to crush a few of the cooked potatoes against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon. That’s what thickens the broth instead of flour. The salmon goes in at the very end, off the heat, so it stays soft.
