Scrambled eggs and smoked salmon is the Saturday-morning dish of every Irish fishing village, ours included. The recipe is barely a recipe. What makes it work is restraint: a low heat under the eggs, butter rather than oil, and the patience to take the pan off before the curds look done. The salmon is the last thing to touch the plate, never the pan. If you do it right, the eggs are soft enough that you barely need to chew them and the salmon is cool and silky against the warmth.
